Surfing San Diego Trip Log: August 2007

One day, I was watching Laird Hamilton on a surf movie, got amped, called my uncle, and said, "Unc. I'm coiming out there to learn to surf."

My uncle, who by the way, was also my sensei when I studied karate, hooked me up with not only a borrowed board that was the right dize for my body, but also with a surfer who showed me the ropes, a ride to and from the airport and the beach, AND he sat on the beach and took pictures for me!!! Now how can you beat that!

Saturday, August 2007

Unfortunately, it was not a good day for waves....and it was WAY harder than I thought it would be. This is as far as I got up! :-)

 

Sunday, August 2007

First thing, is that my body was pretty soar from the paddling. Not really bad, but I definately felt it.

 


"A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects."    — Robert A. Heinlein

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